TNT Diner

Good eats and drinks around Tacoma, Pierce County and South Puget Sound

NOTICE: TNT Diner has moved.

With the launch of our new website, we've moved TNT Diner.
Visit the new section.

Eat your greens — at these soul food joints

Post by News Tribune Staff on Feb. 27, 2008 at 7:57 am | No Comments »
February 27, 2008 7:57 am

A big bowl of greens, with tomatoes, onions and garlic.

When it comes to soul food, one color stands out: green. That’s the color of the leafy vegetables — collards and or mustards, usually — that constitute a plate of greens.

Here are four places I’ve enjoyed greens in the South Sound (and the southern reaches of Seattle). Each version of the dish is slightly different. Two feature pork. One has beef. One has no meat at all. Unless noted, they’re all available as side dishes.

Uncle Thurm’s Finger-Licken Ribs and Chicken (3709 S G St., Tacoma; 253-475-1881)

Tangy and tender, with a sassy under-current of sweet rice vinegar and two kinds of sweet pork (ham hocks and smoked hog shanks), plus onions and garlic. Stick your fork in these greens and you come up with a forkful of greens.

Villa Victoria (3829 S. Edmunds St., Seattle; 206-329-1717)

There’s no pork in these greens — and they’re still good. (They’re the one in the picture above.) They’re most al dente of the greens I surveyed — chewable, but not tough. Tomatoes, onions, garlic standout in texture and flavor. Sold by the pound; take-out only.

Southern Kitchen (1716 6th Ave., Tacoma; 253-627-4282)

Sweet, comforting and slightly mysterious: Is that brown sugar or molasses that mellows out the collards’ natural funk? No matter. Good greens, simmered tender, but not too soft. The meat’s beef bacon, not pork.

Porter’s Place (2615 E. N St., Tacoma253-472-6595)

No, those greens aren’t soup — they’re just served with plenty of potlikker, greens’ simmering liquid. Cooked beyond tender but not quite to mush, these greens include tons of sweet smoked barbecue pork. Onions and garlic thicken the flavors.

The News Tribune now uses Facebook commenting on selected blogs. See editor's column for more details. Commenters are expected to abide by terms of service for Facebook as well as commenting rules for Report violators to