KHALIS, Iraq – With each beat of the drum, hundreds of men dressed in black beat their backs with metal chains. A singer belted a haunting poem about the death of a seventh-century Shia martyr. Others pounded on drums and cymbals, held banners or waved flags.

The men and boys – the women, also clad in all black, were relegated to watching from alleys and rooftops – who lined the streets of Khalis tapped their chest in rhythm with the drum beat. The colorful flags that hang from storefronts, power lines and the water tower were replaced with plain black ones. Nearby mosques blared the singer’s poem, a tribute to Mohammed’s grandson Hussein, from their loudspeakers.

And about a dozen Fort Lewis soldiers, sprinkled amid the jammed sidewalks, watched in awe. The city’s mayor told the troops they would be attending a parade, but few expected to show up at a solemn religious event. When it became obvious what they were watching, word spread: Don’t take any gratuitous photos. Try not to smile. Try to remain as respectful as possible.

Their commander, Lt. Col. Chuck Hodges, dressed in black and gold robes with a black-and-white checkered headdress. He held prayer beads as he stood next to the mayor.

American officers across Iraq are increasingly involving themselves with the civic affairs of their nearby cities. A sort of unelected powerbrokers, they attend city council meetings, discuss issues with business leaders and talk with tribal sheiks.

The Fort Lewis soldiers attended Sunday’s event at the invitation of Khalis Mayor Oday Adnan Ibrahim, a powerful figure in the region. When the mayor suggested Hodges wear traditional garb – which meant no body armor or helmet – the commander saw it as a statement about the area’s progress.

“You can’t say Khalis is secure if you won’t go there and back it up,” Hodges said. “And being seen with the mayor like that – it’ll go a long way.”